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A shark bit my fingerboard? PICS! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5670	Page 1 of 1

Author:	peterm [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:47 pm ]
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Well, it wasn't a shark but it sure looks like it! A lesson well learned....never take your eyes away from your router So here's what happened...I was routing my neck flush with the fingerboard, everything went smooth as usual...until I lifted the routed of the fingerboard, looked around to see the floor covered with shavings, when I turned to put the router down and as I moved my arm towards the table...BAM I miss judged the distance and I hit the fingerboard with the router still spinning.....well I guess t he pictures tell the rest of the story.... So I guess the best thing to do is remove the fingerboard and glue on another one. I was lucky, after all the neck is still intact Any suggestions for the easiest way to remove the fingerboard? It was glued with titebond yesterday.. Thanks again,

Author:	Serge Poirier [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:52 pm ]
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So sorry to hear and see that Peter, i hope someone will come to the rescue quick, at least you did not get hurt, that's the most important thing Good luck with the repair! Serge

Author:	Brock Poling [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:56 pm ]
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I put a towel down on a work bench, lay my heat blanket on it, clamp the neck to the blanket (face down of course) an in about 5 minutes you should be able to unclamp it and peel it right up with a putty knife. You may then want to clamp the neck to a known flat surface while it cools. Just put a piece of wax paper down so the glue residue doesn't rebond to the clamping surface.

Author:	peterm [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:02 pm ]
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Thanks Brock....I'll give it a try

Author:	Kelby [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:11 pm ]
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Ouch! Do you find that you save much time routing the neck flush as opposed to using hand tools? A block plane or spokeshave (and a rasp in the heel and peghead area) make pretty quick work of it, but maybe I'm missing out.

Author:	peterm [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:15 pm ]
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Kelby, I only use the router to trim the neck flush with the fingerboard....after that I use only hand tools and a belt sander... Goes to show you, it only takes a sec

Author:	peterm [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:32 pm ]
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This is why the OLF is the best place on the web! Thanks to Brock's advise I had the fingerboard off the neck and the eck cleaned in less than 10 mins! and to think I was going to use a clothes iron? Thanks again...

Author:	A Peebels [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:55 pm ]
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I used to have s shoe that looked sort of like that. I was standing on a board when the router got loose almost 30 yr ago. I learned a lot about respecting routers that day. Al

Author:	Bruce Dickey [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:32 am ]
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How about a shark inlay? I know you probably have plans for the neck that didn't include one. I bet an inlay artist could fix it up.

Author:	clavin [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:40 am ]
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shark related inlay. Just my speed.... (of course others are equally speedy here as well.... Remember the Grit code!! ) Craig L

Author:	Don Williams [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:57 am ]
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Peter, my heart goes out to you man... that kind of thing really hurts. On the bright side, at least it was now and not later on in the process. A hard lesson, but you won't repeat it. Brock's suggestion is great for removing it. I can see I'm not the only one who has had to remove one...

Author:	hoosierukes [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:57 am ]
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Norman Takeya's Shark Bite Uke From the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii Site

Author:	Serge Poirier [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:46 am ]
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Ever cool!

Author:	hoosierukes [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:21 am ]
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The shark bite uke was the first to sell at the 2004 UGH Convention.

Author:	CarltonM [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:29 am ]
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Peter, there's always a bright side...you could have been flush-trimming the top! Routing experts always say to never lift a running router off of a workpiece--turn it off and wait 'til the bit stops. I didn't believe them, until I took a bite out of an aluminum straight-edge that I was using as a fence. I still don't know how I did it, but there it was! Made an awful sound (the bit, then me). It was a brand new bit, too. Luckily, the straight-edge was old and cheap.

Author:	Brock Poling [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:18 am ]
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[QUOTE=Don Williams] Brock's suggestion is great for removing it. I can see I'm not the only one who has had to remove one... [/QUOTE] Yep... sometimes it is one step forward, two steps back. That is also the lesson that taught me to use tightbond II for bindings as well.

Author:	crich [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:24 pm ]
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Brock, Please explain why you use Titebond II instead of the "Orginal" on bindings as well? Do you use TBII on the fretboard also? Clinton

Author:	Brock Poling [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:05 pm ]
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I use either original titebond or LMI white to put the fingerboard on the neck...(although I have been thinking about giving epoxy a try). Using titebond II on fingerboard bindings helps because if you have to remove the fretboard they don't delaminate as easily. If you use the same glue for everything once you get enough heat to remove the fretboard from the neck it is usually enough heat to release the bindings from the fingerboard.... ask me how I know...

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